Champagne Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru 2012
The commune of Le Mesnil houses a sacred 4.5ha walled plot of Chardonnay vines (owned by Krug) around which, the buildings of the village form a protective barrier. Whilst the fruit from this vineyard is destined for one of the most expensive Champagnes, the nearby vineyards are amongst the finest of the Cotes des Blancs and from which some of the best Cuvees are created, especially those lead by Chardonnay.
The co-operative of Champagne Le Mesnil was established in 1937, a relative new-comer in the chronology of the region. But with access to exceptional Grand Cru fruit, expertise and efficiencies, Champagne Le Mesnil are creating complex and delicious wines. The flagship bears an uncanny, perhaps somewhat (at first impression) self-apotheosising name i.e, “Sublime”. It’s the vinous equivalent of the Skoda Superb or Volvo Excellence…… it’s a risky move if you don’t deliver on your promise. After tasting the Sublime Grand Cru 2012, I assure you, the wine lives up to its personally-anointed hype.
White florals and lemon jump out of my glass on the nose. A flinty, oyster shell acidity spans out to a rounder, richer mouthfeel of citrus blossom and white peach. A moorish, saline character tempts you back again and again to the wine, with no cloying sweetness nor heavy yeast autolysis to weigh down the palate. It’s tight and precise but not so linear it lacks the layers and personality. A beautifully made wine with a life ahead of it.
The name, maketh the Champagne.
Steve Dundon, @Champagne XS
2007 Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
Put simply: Champagne! ‘though that said, there is nothing simple about an excellent Champagne, with all its gorgeous complexity. Champagne is perfectly festive and celebratory. It’s perfect for sharing and perfect for summer, as an aperitif or with seafood. My fave, a Vintage Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs – Le Mesnil’s ’07 Sublime. Sublime by name, sublime by nature. Tchin! Tchin!