Our Champagne backstory; why the hell do we bother?

As Champagne lovers we’d grown dissatisfied with the range of quality Champagne available in Australia and its value for money. While Australia is the 6th biggest market for Champagne outside of France, and we drink almost 10 times as much of it as we did at the beginning of the millennium, we are almost at the bottom of the list of prestige Champagne and Rosé consumption and the lowest consumers of Grower and Co-operative Champagne. A lot of what we get here is driven by the supermarkets; entry level stuff at a premium price point...

Over the last couple of decades we have met with and tasted with 400 Champagne producers at Prowein and in Champagne itself. The result: we now can offer you superb non-vintage cuvées, magnificent Grand Cru and long lees aged cuvées, vintage Champagne and Rosé. Thanks to the exhaustive tastings we’ve undertaken, these are all outstanding and great value.

We have exceptional value non-vintage Champagne from Bernard Remy, in addition to their Grand Cru from the village of Le Mesnil - widely considered to be one of the top 2 villages (out of over 300) in all of Champagne. From Champagne Bouche, an exquisite Rosé Champagne which spends 4 years on lees, and their magnificent 2009 cuvée which comprises fruit sourced almost entirely from Grand and Premier Cru Villages. This spends more time on lees prior to disgorgement than Dom Perignon and is truly magnificent.

We promise to continue the search for more Champagne but will only import if the quality and value for money are absolutely compelling!

Our most recent trip to Europe in March saw plenty more meetings, both at Prowein and then in Champagne. Samples have arrived and chances are we’ll be adding to the current Champagnes we offer. Final tastings will be conducted in Australia in the next few weeks. For more info, feel free to contact us at sales@winedirect.com.au or Free Call 1800 64 9463.

How long does Champagne last?

Not long once the bottle is open! Once you have heard the beautiful pop, signifying that the cork’s removal is releasing 6 atmospheres of pressure, Champers bubbles begin to move... and the magic is conjured in your glass, even as it begins to dissipate.

Champagne can also be cellared. Champagne drinkers in the UK will often tuck away their stash for a few years before getting into it. Fair to say though that Champagne is released for sale when the producer feels it is ready to drink – with the ageing done in bottle for you already. This ageing is done with the yeast in the bottle for at least 15 months and often much longer. Why? Over time the yeast decomposes in the bottle (autolysis), and sugars and mannoproteins are imparted into the wine which becomes more complex and interesting as a result; aromas and flavours develop such as yeasty notes, brioche, florals, nuttiness, a creamier mouthfeel and much finer bead. The impact of autolysis is much more profound after the wine has been on lees for 18 months. The more time on lees, the greater the development of flavour and complexity.

How many glasses of Champagne in a bottle?

How big is your glass? You might get 8 glasses using those thin flutes... but they aren’t much chop for drinking Champagne. A standard white wine glass does a much better job of conveying aromas and flavours and when you are shelling out Champagne money, you really want to extract every last morsel of ‘huzzah’! Standard white wine glasses will fit a bit more in them than the old-style flute, so let's say 6 glasses.

What is the best Champagne?

It’s the one you like the most!

Chardonnay vs. Pinot Noir vs. blends - Chardonnay and Pinot are the most widely planted grapes in the region and most Champagne is mostly a blend of these + or - Pinot Meunier. Straight Chardonnay and straight Pinot Noir Champagnes are also common.

Chardonnay Champagnes tend to be lively and mineral and can offer aromas and flavours of white flowers, citrus, grapefruit, chalk, green apple. Aniseed ginger and bread. If they are ages long on lees in bottles brioche, almond, stewed fruits, toast, grilled nuts, mushroom and more may emerge.

Pinot Noir Champagnes tend to offer body and structure with aromas and flavours including red apple, cherries, strawberry, damson plum, blackberry, cinnamon, rose and violet. As these wines age on lees, mango, fig, other red and black berries, hazelnuts, date (the palm kind!) tobacco, coffee and cacao may emerge.

Some drinkers prefer straight Chardonnay, some Pinot, some a combination of the two. The best way to unlock this mystery is to try for yourself!

Grand and Premier Cru vineyards vs. the rest - There are several hundred distinct villages in Champagne and all are capable of producing excellent Champagne. Only 17 of these are rated Grand Cru (best) and just over 40 Premier Cru (bloody good). This doesn't mean that all Grand and Premier Cru Champagnes are exceptional, nor that regular village bubbles are all meh. This categorisation came about in the 1920s when the large producers proposed paying for grapes by quality, rather than just volume. The means of ‘measuring’ quality was to determine which sub regions were the best (Grand Cru) and which were second tier (Premier Cru). That said, on average Grand Cru is best, Premier Cru next best. Some producers though will blend across 2 or 3 of these subsets if it produces a better wine. Pierre Gimmonet for instance will blend to make a better wine and in so doing loses the commercial advantage that being able to include the term Grand Cru on his label would afford. Krug also produces strictly according to quality. Champagne Bouche is another. Their 2008 is an exceptional blend of Grand and Premier Cru fruit.

What is Champagne made from?

There are a bunch of varietals which can be used in the production of Champagne, with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier being the most common. They make up over 99% of total production. Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris can also be used.

The Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs is an example of a Champagne made from 100% Chardonnay sourced entirely from the Grand Cru Village of Le Mesnil. The Roger Brun Cuvée La Pelle Grand Cru is another exceptional Grand Cru Champagne made from 100% Pinot Noir. Finally, the Bouche Pere Et Fils Millesime is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced primarily from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. This Champagne is made from the best fruit from a single vintage.

The group of 7 allowed varieties is likely to change in the future. As climate change impacts ripeness, the Chef du Caves, aka winemakers, are dialling back the amount of dosage (sugar) they add to Champagne, some are even preventing malolactic fermentation to bring balance to increasingly ripe fruit. It is possible though, that these methods will only work in the short to medium term.

Increasing disease pressure is also an issue with downy and powdery mildew more frequently impacting quality and yield.

From 2023 the SGV (Syndicat Général des Vignerons, SGV) in Champagne will allow the planting of a grape called Voltis. This is a lab created hybrid grape which is fungus resistant. The jury is out on how it will impact on the flavour profiles with one producer saying he was 'seduced by its flavours', another saying 'This is like crossing a monkey with a man: it may be technically possible but it goes against nature... [and will lead to] artificial and unnatural wine'... We find the concept of a monkey man or woman intriguing... and with a prehensile tail we could compare 3 wines simultaneously, bonus!

2015 2012 French Champagne Wines

Oh, Champagne. How do we love thee? Let us count the ways! The beverage of celebrations, of life’s sweetest moments; there’s something about Champagne bubbles that gets our pulses racing here at winedirect.com.au. There are plenty of incredible sparkling wines out there, but real Champers, which has to come from the Champagne region in France (not to be confused with the town of Champagne, but don’t ask Matt about that), reigns supreme. Not only does it need to be from the designated region, but to earn the title of Champagne, it must adhere to strict standards including where and how the grapes are grown and pressed, and the carbonation needs to occur as a result of secondary fermentation in the bottle. Usually made with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay grape ...

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