Roger Brun Cuvée des Sires 2013
Produced from the family’s Grand Cru vineyards in the commune of Ay, Roger Brun Reserve Cuvée des Sires 2013 is created from gently pressed (Cuvée) run juice, fermented in large old oak barrels. The Sous Bois (under wood) ferment helps create a richness and fullness reticent of many of the Pinot Noir-lead wines from Ay as well as the power and complexity you’d expect of wines bearing these price tags.
Having tried and reviewed the Grand Cru Reserve Brut in 2018, there’s a familiar signature to Phillipe Brun’s winemaking when first tasting his Cuvée des Sires. The wine is as much a reflection of his personality as it is of the terroir. Bold, unapologetically artisan; with enticing notes of dried porcini, hazelnut and truffle complimenting red fruits and grapefruit skin. The oxidative handling helps create layers to the wine but the fine, driving line of acid and Chardonnay -lead minerality keep the funkiness and autolysis charm of the wine in focus. The wine has been disgorged with taste in mind rather than assuming credibility from excessive lees ageing.
I tasted the wine from large Pinot Noir Riedel Grand Cru glasses and there’s a ‘story in each glass’, one told differently, I found, as the wine warmed up. These are the Champagnes for those looking for vinous hedonism rather than gratification from often less complex (and more expensive) better-known Grand marques from the bigger houses.
Steve Dundon, @Champagne XS